The suede suede is mainly composed of the extension line of the front comb, and the extension line forms short, dense, uniform and uniform fluff by the processes of raising, dyeing, shearing and sanding. If the extension line is too long, it is easy to fluff, but the hair is too long, which affects the cost of the product, and the finished body is not ideal. Therefore, in the design, it should not be forced to easily fluff, but should choose the appropriate needle structure from the requirements of facilitating the short and dense fluff. The length of the pile is preferably 0.1 to 1 mm. When it is shorter than 0.1mm, it is easy to expose the bottom, which is detrimental to the appearance of the suede. If it is longer than 1mm, it will be easily tangled.
Warp-knitted suede requires a tightly organized structure. The ground tissue can be either a bar or two bar, which is actually determined by the areal density and cost requirements of the product. If there is only one bar, the choice of the ground yarn needs to consider the shrinkage effect. After pretreatment, the fabric door width should shrink by about 35~45%. After the fabric is pulled, cut, milled, etc., the surface pile yarn is pulled and fluffed, and the ground yarn still needs to maintain a certain strength, so that the product meets the dressing requirements. The velveteen tissue and the slanted flat tissue commonly used in warp-knitted suede are shown in Figure 1. In addition, if the two bars are reversed, it is advantageous for weaving, but the curling is serious, which is not conducive to the pile processing; the two bars are made of the same direction, which solves the curling and facilitates raising. At the same time, in order to make the cloth edge more flat, add a spandex wire to the edge of the processing.
The control of the tension on the warp-knitted fabric is very important. The control of the tension of the pile yarn and the ground yarn and the selection of the finishing equipment will affect the suede effect. For suede fabrics, the tension of the front carding yarn is small, and the tension of the rear carding yarn is larger, but it is suitable. If the tension is too large, the fabric will have a jump phenomenon in the weaving; if the tension yarn and the ground yarn are close to each other, after finishing, the warp and the ground will shrink together, and the pile warp will form a curvature on the pile surface, so that It is difficult to pull and sand the process.
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